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執筆者の写真Cassandra Harada

Made To: Work, Part 4. Scenes from a Tokyo Tailor Shop

It's been a minute.

Between making jumpers and preparing for autumn, and all of the micro-jobs involved in having a small studio, and tailoring in Kamata, I try to get here once a month at least to document something...

Something.

I'll keep it short, so you can carry on with your day.

This week it is the final instalment of the "Goat Coat". I.e. an ankle-length cashmere winter coat that is just another step in the direction of being able to make coats myself. This garment was relatively simple. There were no inside pockets, two outer "welt pockets" and not much in the way of darts or shaped interlining.

The last thing I had to do was to put the top collar in place, and do all of the finishing work.

I am not yet trusted with top collars, so, while I am charged with the pad stitching, the shaping gets done by the Master.






It was then on to button holes. I love making button holes.




Coat buttons are large, which means coat front button holes are LONG. They require about double the time I usually take, but as I love doing this job, that was a positive thing for me.

I then proceeded to pick stitch the coat. This is another job I typically adore, but... This coat was much longer than the usual jacket, and also much heavier. By the end of the day, I was pretty knackered from flinging this around so much.

Lastly we pressed. I did most of this job, so I don't really have any photographs of it. Giving a final press often feels like the most important part of tailoring. The pile on this particular cloth was so thick, it felt a bit pointless (as you will see in the final photo) but I soldiered on, and did the job as trained, regardless of the steam hole imprints.

Here she is, in all her goat hair glory. A warm coat for winter, made with love, good intentions, and with good pockets.







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